Manchester House

Ian Jones, Food and Drink Editor

Visit now

Manchester House

18-22 Bridge Street, Manchester, M3 3BZ
0161 835 2557
This venue is permanently closed.
Ian Jones
Book now

This restaurant is now closed. In its place is Restaurant MCR.

It’s all change at Manchester House. Head Chef Aiden Byrne has moved onto pastures new, and in his place is one the rising stars of the UK food scene, Nottingham-born Nathanial Tofan, aka Nat. Nat was one of the key figures behind the launch of the Manchester’s much-praised Australasia restaurant, as well as working alongside Aiden for many years. Expectations are high.

Spiced quail, mango, cardamon, lime pickle

Today, we’re tasting a selection of dishes from the spring menu. We begin with the spice quail – a complex dish, full of varyingly shaped parts, jigsawed together. Tiny cubes of mango underpin the whole dish, giving a delicious sweetness to the hearty, hefty quail meat. Notes of cardamon and lime zig zag through, and the crisp lattices build a layer of textures that work well together.

Vanilla poached salmon, heritage tomato salad, ricotta

The vanilla poached salmon is a good small plate, perfect for these warmer months. The salmon has been lightly poached, falling apart delicately, and making a fine match to the soft slick ricotta cheese. An array of bold multi-coloured tomatoes surround the fish, tasting both tart and sweet.

Texel lamb, baby onions, potato, sweetbread

The lamb main takes things up a notch. A robust cut from the Texel sheep who live out their lives on the island of Texel in the Netherlands, this meat is full-bodied and punchy, cooked pink and wonderfully moreish. It’s matched with baby onions and a pleasing cube of potato, all adding solid but subtle background flavours. The crunchy fried sweetbreads top things off superbly, making for one of the best lamb dishes in the city.

Pollock, ditalini, chipiron squid, lemon hollandaise

After such impressive plates, the pollock dish comes as a disappointment. It’s a fine fresh piece of white fish, but somewhat lacking in flavour. The ditalini is a forgettable accompaniment, miniature cylinders of pasta that – again – have no discernible flavour, and even the frothy, foamy lemon hollandaise sauce plopped on top can’t make up for it. It’s a beige and ultimately bland course, and feels out of place next to the other stunning offerings.

Milk chocolate pavé, rose & lychee sorbet

Thankfully, desserts restore the equilibrium. The milk chocolate pavé glistens in the springtime sun, and the pink popping candy makes the tastebuds sparkle along with it. The lychee sorbet is a necessary almost-sour addition, demonstrating Nat’s skill at balancing sweet and tart flavours.

Passionfruit, basil gel, caramelised white chocolate sorbet, meringue

Similar to the quail dish, the passionfruit dessert is another complicated arrangement, incorporating freeze-dried basil glass which snaps with a satisfying crack and adding an unusual herbal taste. This is all tangled in with caramelised white chocolate sorbet and little dollops of crunchy meringue. It’s a masterclass in how to make desserts exciting.

Despite new contenders, such as 20 Stories, Manchester House remains at the top of the city’s fine dining tree. Young chef Nat has brought a raft of innovative ideas to the table, and the odd forgivable misstep aside, is the perfect person to breathe new life into this venue.

Photos by Stephen Keates

What's on near Manchester House

An image of Dame Maggie Aderin-Pocock, a black middle-aged woman with long hair in a red top, looking directly at the camera with a warm expression. Look for a book
Until
FamiliesManchester
Look for a Book

Kick off Festival of Libraries 2025 with out-of-this-world book searching across Manchester.

Free entry

Where to go near Manchester House

Manchester
Restaurant
BLVD Manchester

Taking over the space formerly occupied by Neighbourhood, BLVD promises ‘exceptional food and drink’.

Spinningfields
Restaurant
Australasia

Australasia serves up modern Pan-Asian cuisine, underneath the Spinningfields district in one of Manchester’s most stylish venues.

Manchester
Restaurant
Honest Burgers

This burger joint focuses on high-quality burgers and sides, homemade using local produce. After a series of pop-ups they’ve found a permanent home on Bridge Street in the centre of Manchester.

City Centre
Bar or Pub
The Oast House

A rustic Kentish Oast House (that’s a traditional hop-drying shed, of course) plunked down amidst the glass and steel corridors of Spinningfields.

City Centre
Restaurant
Mojo

Rocking, rolling, rum bar on Manchester’s Bridge Street

Stow
City Centre
Restaurant
Stow

Stow is a new fire-based restaurant on Bridge Street in Manchester, from the team behind Trof.

The Alchemist
City Centre
Restaurant
The Alchemist

Following a huge refurb, Spinningfields cocktail The Alchemist is back with an impressive new food and drink menu.

Manchester
Restaurant
Provence

Provence is a brand-new, all-day day wine bar that has wine for any occasion you can think of.

Manchester
Restaurant
KAJI

Tokyo meets Manchester in a series of awe-inspiring dishes and drinks at KAJI.

Culture Guides

Isabel Galleymore in conversation
Literature Events in the North

There's a lot of experimentation going on in our Literature guide, from poets playing with form to short story writers looking long.

Three men sit next to each other. One's head is bandaged, one holds a torch and one wears a sleepmask.
Cinema in the North

Live scores, midnight movies and the latest from Wes Anderson are just some of our upcoming film highlights.

Theatre in Manchester and the North
Theatre in the North

Eclectic as ever. You'll find inventive reworkings, world-class contemporary dance and Greater Manchester's inaugural Improv Festival in our guide.

Music in the North

Gigs are coming in hot this spring – from long-awaited returns to one-off happenings you’ll blink and miss if you're not careful.

Experience a unique deep listening art installation inviting audiences to lay down and be bathed in sound and light.
Exhibitions in the North

From city-wide art festivals to open-air sculptural installations, we have exhibitions from all around the North, both indoors and out.