BLVD Manchester
Ian Jones, Food and Drink EditorVisit now
BLVD Manchester
BLVD (pronounced “boulevard”, not bull-vud) has more than a few of my favourite things: state-of-the-art neon lighting, elaborate cocktails, and a menu packed full of Caribbean cuisine.
Most exciting of all, this Spinningfields restaurant (also a bar and nightclub) has just launched a Caribbean-themed Sunday roast. It’s a match made in island-based heaven. Both involve walloping great portions and communal, homely dining, backed by a whole lot of history.
If any criticism could be levelled at the sacred British Sunday roast, it’s that it can sometimes be a bit safe and boring. Introduce the mighty thwack of jerk, pimento or all-purpose, and it becomes a force to be reckoned with.
The brains behind it all is Jamaican-born Javier Kamicka, who learned how to cook as a child watching his mum scoff at the concept of measuring spoons, creating recipes based purely on ‘vibes’ and all the better for it.
There are three Caribbean-style twists on Sunday roast: honey jerk chicken, honey jerk pork, and honey jerk pork, plus a plant-based version and the traditional non-jerky style. The sharing roast is the one to try, offering up all three spiced meats for a pocket-friendly £20 per head. If you’re a one-meat man/woman, the honey jerk lamb chop is the standout, thanks to the sizzling, salty charred edges, but the pork isn’t far behind.
The chicken is white meat, which is pleasant enough, but it’d be nice to see some legs and other dark poultry meat in there or even the motherlode – a goat leg.
Speaking of goat, the goat spring roll starters are a smart new idea that sort of shouldn’t work but really do. They’re made from leftovers from the Saturday curry goat, so the flavours are more potent.
At first, teaming BLVD with Caribbean cuisine seems like an odd match. But in a weird way, it makes sense. They’re both flamboyant, in-your-face and proudly bombastic, maybe even a little boombastic. It’s a bold move, or, rather, a BLD MV, but it works astoundingly well. Sunday roast fans should head on over to check out without delay.
