Bacino
Ian Jones, Food and Drink Editor
Bacino is a raved-about Italian restaurant based in a sectioned-off side of Flannels, the high-end department store in Liverpool. Based around a cicchetti menu (aka small plates), it’s all about shared dining, making it perfect for those pre, mid or post-shopping group dates. Especially as the drinks section is one of the best for miles, with an impressive wine list and huge range of skillfully designed cocktails.
The menu covers all your Mediterranean needs, with enough traditional options to keep the purists happy, plus a few dishes with some extra dazzle for the daredevils.
First things first, if you see a dish with fennel sausage on it, snap it up. Nowhere does fennel sausage like Bacino, it’s soft, salty and mildly illicit-feeling, thanks to that subtle-but-intoxicating hint of anise. We have it in a ragu, with glorious, thick strips of pappardelle, peas, dill and parsley. It’s an absolute must.
As are the croquettes, also from the meat section, made with prosciutto, parmesan and chilli aioli. The sensation of biting into one, with all those flavours bursting into your mouth, is right up there.
There’s a pleasingly large range of vegetarian dishes, including the light and fresh goats cheese salad: a big bowl of rocket, stirred through with polenta, candied walnut and tangy orange segments. Sticking with cheese, as well we might, the arancini are soft and gooey, with a hot, delicate breadcrumbed shell, and the gnocchi comes smothered in a cacio e pepe sauce, the peppery notes nicely balanced out with olive, mint and lemon flavours.
The vegan aubergine canneloni is another standout dish, thanks to the simple but rich and potent tomato sauce that runs through it. But top marks for the use of spinach pesto – a perfect match for the fresh aubergine and tomato.
The roast seabass is the most eye-catching dish, and priced well, all things considered. It’s a nice thick slice of fish, resting on an artfully arranged confit potato terrine, with a sublime sauce vierge (a simple combination of basil, tomato, lemon juice and olive oil). It looks wonderful, and tastes it too.
For dessert, gelato aside, it’s all about the cake. Both the spiced apple crumble cheesecake and orange and polenta cake have a pleasing stodge, offering a sweet, gentle contrast to the savoury dishes. The fluffy tiramisu is near-perfect, just a simple take on the Italian classic, with plenty of moreish, creamy mascarpone to balance out the brandy coffee.
Everything about Bacino says luxury. From the stylish decor to the smart, on-trend dishes, this is a place for high-quality dining without being ostentatious.
