Albert’s Schloss Liverpool
Ian Jones, Food and Drink Editor
Oktoberfest traditionally runs up to the first Sunday in October, but heck, it’s still October so let’s celebrate all things Germanic. And that means a trip to Liverpool’s Bold Street for a boozy Bavarian bite to eat at Albert’s Schloss. Except, this is Schloss we’re talking about, so these dishes are substantially more than bites – think feasts, October Feasts.
The first thing to note is the atmosphere – during our Friday evening visit, the venue is packed with friendly post-work groups of friends, all age ranges, all out for a good time, all in high spirits. This is due, in no small part, to the excellent staff.
If a restaurant is to be judged by the happiness of its workers – which it should be – then this is one of the best. We’re waited on by Skye, who effortlessly delivers laughs, charm and excellent food and drink recommendations – making our visit a delight from start to finish. But everyone working here is cheery and pleasant – impressive for anywhere on a weekend, let alone a busy city centre venue like Schloss.
The menu is a nice mix of German-inspired mains and small plates, mixed in with a few classic items. The honey roast pork belly is flawless – soft, hot, salty meat, topped with a thick piece of textured crackling, with a swoosh of tart-and-sweet burnt apple ketchup on the side, plus some crunchy rainbow sauerkraut.
Schloss’s Haus Flammkuchen is another great starter. Think German pizza, baked on-site, with a pleasingly thick base showcasing a great array of toppings: fondue, creme fraiche, soft onions, herbs and crispy prosciutto. It’d make a fine lunchtime snack, but works very well as an opening salvo for an extended sit-down meal.
It’d be remiss not to try the cheekily-named sausage fest. It’s no misnomer; you get three enormous German sausages: a classic bratwurst, a lightly smoked kaiserwurst and, best of all, the chilli beef frankfurter – the spiciest and most potent of the lot. The potato salad is fine, but we’d suggest switching it out for some fries (Albert’s Schloss is flexible about this, don’t worry about asking), but the pickles, curry ketchup and Haus mustard are key accompaniments. Unless you’re very very hungry, this alone will likely feed two. For a week.
Then there’s chicken cordon bleu from the Haus of Schnitzel section. Older readers might recall the proto-Iceland frozen supermarket chain Cordon Bleu, from the culinary dark days of the 1970s and 80s; and if so, put that out of your mind immediately. This is a grand dish, elegant and hearty, all at the same time. The schnitzel is made with high-quality chicken breast, soft and moreish, with a nice golden coating. It comes topped with gruyere cheese, prosciutto, and a gloriously rich wild mushroom and brandy sauce, with some equally excellent truffle fries on the side. It’s a main meal in the old-school sense of the word and demands to be enjoyed with a glass of wine. Keith Floyd would be proud.
Dessert-wise, baked Aslaska seems to be having its moment in the sun lately, but few do it better than Schloss. The brandy sauce is the best in the North, ensuring the delicious soft meringue has those all-important charred bits, while adding a nice kick when smothered over the chunky ice cream hidden deep inside.
Albert’s Schloss does many things – cocktails, beer, restaurant, live music – and does them all very well. It’s a great starting point for a night out on Liverpool’s vibrant Bold Street, offering great drinks, a relaxed welcoming atmosphere and some of the heartiest and best-executed food this side of the Rhine.
