The Urban Playground

Who said the city is just for grown-ups? From a hermit hidden in a Gothic museum to an interactive dance exhibition, and from late-night screenings of blockbuster films to Victorian parlour games, Manchester makes the perfect playground for kids and grown ups alike.

The Manchester Hermit.
27 June-5 August. FREE entry; all ages.

A hermit hides inside a dusty Gothic tower in Manchester Museum. Surrounded by relics and sealed off from all human contact, he quietly meditates. The Museum thinks it knows what he’s contemplating – but doesn’t know what, exactly, he’s planning to do about it. The hermit in question is no ordinary man: he’s the world-renowned performance artist, Ansuman Biswas. For 40 days and 40 nights this summer, as part of an artistic project quite unlike any other, Ansuman considers some of the most pressing issues of our time: climate change, extinction and the future of our planet. Although he’s locked inside the tower, Ansuman will use vipassana meditation as the starting point for a wider debate, challenging visitors to consider the devastating loss of habitats and species wrought by humankind. The Museum is well placed to consider our relationship to the environment: among its four million-plus artefacts are the fascinating remains of extinct animals – including a full-size replica of a Tyrannosaurus rex – as well as the remnants of cities and cultures long since turned to dust. Special events throughout the summer shed light on the Hermit’s musings, including hands-on exhibits, an interactive blog and twitter feed, child-friendly workshops, curator-led debates and, on 5 August, a mass yoga session – perfect if all that excitement means your little ones are reluctant to take their daytime naps…

Manchester Museum, Oxford Road M13 9PL (0161 275 2634). Open: 10am-5pm, Tues-Sat; 11am-4pm Sun, Mon & Bank Hols.

Out and about: The Museum has its own rather lovely café – with decent children’s menu – plus a free top floor play and picnic area. For a change of scene, however, the Whitworth Art Gallery, further up Oxford Road and in the heart of the university district, hosts an award-winning café, whose kids’ menu (with free art pack) is second to none – the café was voted the best for casual dining in the 2006 Manchester Food and Drink Awards. With an outdoor seating area, full-sized tepees among the trees and ‘explorer rucksacks’ for use in the grounds and adjacent park, it’s the perfect place for young ‘uns to let off steam. And on 15 August, world-renowned artist and political activist Gustav Metzger unveils Flailing Trees. Commissioned by Manchester International Festival, this permanent outdoor sculpture features 21 upended willow trees, their tops buried in concrete and their exposed roots pointing to the sky. It’s a challenging work (Metzger wants viewers to consider the damage done to an environment that trees help to protect) but artists will be on hand to work with children to create large-scale willow dens and ‘living’ pathways around the Gallery in response to the work.

Whitworth Art Gallery, Oxford Road M15 6ER (0161 275 7450). Open: 10am-5pm Mon-Sat; 12-4pm Sun.

Express Yourself.
Until 27 September. FREE entry; all ages.

Shake off those inhibitions, strike a pose and start to vogue: a new exhibition at The Lowry will help you get into the groove. Not convinced? The Lowry’s Express Yourself is a visual history of dance and, alongside images of some of the world’s greatest dancers, supplies the music and the moves to help you get down with the kids. In fact, The Lowry argues that dancing provides a ‘shortcut to happiness’ and, as you make your way through this celebration of 100 years of dance, you’ll come across dancers, choreographers, images and artworks of almost every dance movement of the last century: ballet, breakdancing, tea dances, street style, rock n’roll, line dancing and, um, the Time Warp. Designed designed by Matt Pagett, the show comes with a guide to everything from finger bopping to full-blown air guitar. This hugely enjoyable exhibition down at The Quays hops between disciplines and is an introduction not just to dance but also to visual art, music, theatre and photography. More importantly, though, it gives you the music, inspiration and the opportunity to hone your ‘Dad dancing’ in style – your kids need never be embarrassed to be seen on the dance floor with you again. Well, almost.

The Lowry, Pier 8, Salford Quays, M50 3AZ (0870 787 5780). Open (galleries only): 11am-5pm Sun-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat.

Out and about: The Lowry is one of the architectural highlights of The Quays. Sitting by the Ship Canal, its steel-clad architecture mirrors the award winning, Daniel Libeskind-designed Imperial War Museum North opposite, with the two buildings joined by a footbridge that spans this spectacular waterfront. The Imperial War Museum is as family friendly as The Lowry – inside, there are stacks of hands-on exhibits and craft activities – and both have cafes and restaurants to tempt the fussiest of eaters. Close by is the Lowry Outlet Mall, good for bargains from the likes of Flannels or Whistles (or for more mainstream eateries such as Pizza Express), while football fans can live the dream at Manchester United’s football ground nearby.

Imperial War Museum North, The Quays, Trafford Wharf, Trafford Park M17 1TZ (0161 836 4000). Open: Open: 10am-6pm daily. Lowry Outlet Mall, The Quays, Salford Quays, M50 3AH. Open: 10am-1am Mon-Fri; 9am-1am Sat; 10am-11.30pm Sun.

‘The Imperial War Museum is a real work of architecture, nourished by the quality of the ideas that have gone into it and the skills of the people who built it.’ Deyan Sudjic, The Observer

The Great Indoors.
Sat 11 & Sun 12 July. FREE entry; age 3-11 years.

Manchester International Festival is as much fun for ankle biters as it is for cultural connoisseurs: this year’s festival includes two action-packed days of entertainment and activities for children and families – all absolutely free. Forget face painting and balloons: The Great Indoors is a children’s festival like no other. It includes kinetic sculpture, cupcake workshops, multi-sensory and interactive theatre, live shows, circus and contemporary music events from the likes of Walk The Plank and Oily Cart. What’s most intriguing, though, is that The Great Indoors promises to turn Manchester Town Hall over to the kids. The Town Hall’s marble floors and neo-Gothic corridors of power may be more used to the hushed tones of politicians and policy-makers, but, for one weekend only, it becomes a ‘fun palace’ for over 10,000 children and grown-ups. Not to be missed.

The Great Indoors, Manchester Town Hall, Albert Square M60 2LA. Open: 10.30am-5.30pm Sat 11 & Sun 12 July.

Out and about: The Town Hall is a stone’s throw from Manchester Art Gallery. Here, alongside sterling summer exhibitions, kids can chow down on top-notch food in the Gallery’s award winning café or can, if they’ve still got the energy, leg it about in the interactive gallery. The Gallery’s well-stocked shop is one of the best places in the city to spend pocket money (there’s all manner of small-pocket goodies, including the Gallery’s very own tome, The Gallery Cat, illustrated by acclaimed children’s artist, Tony Ross), plus handcrafted jewellery and art books for the grown-ups.

Manchester Art Gallery, Mosely Street M2 3JL (0161 235 8888). Open: 10am-5pm Tues-Sun; closed Mon except Bank Hols.

‘At Manchester Art Gallery, there’s a Roger Fry-inspired giant jigsaw in the modern and contemporary gallery, a lift-the-flap who’s who of classical gods in the 18th-century gallery, and labels by the children’s illustrator Tony Ross below the oil paintings.’ Dea Birkett, The Guardian.

Videogame Nation.
Until 20 September. £3/kids under 5 free; all ages.

Consoles at the ready: an interactive exhibition at Urbis this summer charts 30 years of British gaming, covering everything from Manic Miner to Grand Theft Auto. Videogame Nation examines, in depth and with a fair amount of joystick-waggling, the culture and sub-culture of this most addictive of indoor pursuits. Over the last 30 years, videogames have infiltrated every aspect of urban culture, from the corporate giants falling over themselves to get into Second Life to happy families whiling away the weekend playing on their Wii. And yet how much do we really know about gaming? How has it grown from the solitary pursuit of the 1970s, driven by bedroom-bound teenagers, into the global industry it is today? Videogame Nation is your chance to find out. 100% interactive, the show lets you play forgotten gems such as Jet Set Willy and Sensible World of Soccer, reminds you of recent classics such as Tomb Raider, and illustrates why Grand Theft Auto has become one of entertainment’s biggest British exports. It moves from the arcades of the 80s to the mobile devices and online games of today, as well as delving into the underbelly of the industry. Videogame Nation traces the collective imagination of a nation gripped by gaming – and is a blast for both novices and pros alike.

Urbis, Cathedral Gardens M4 3BG (0161 605 8200). Open: 10am-6pm daily.

Out and about: Just a short stroll from Urbis, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols offer a little high-end shopping, while the Arndale is great for high street shops and family-friendly eating – Waterstone’s has a quiet café (with highchairs and play area for younger children). Teenagers and the style-conscious should, however, head into the Northern Quarter. With its vintage boutiques, skate stores, curry houses and record shops, this is independent shopping at its best. Rags to Bitches is our tip for vintage threads, while Babycakes is the hot ticket for cooler-than-thou t-shirts and sunglasses (just don’t expect your offspring to acknowledge your presence while browsing). Kitsch emporium-cum-cafe, Oaklahoma offers a bizarre (but endearing) mix of toys, gifts and homeware, while the Craft & Design Centre is home to an array of artist-run studios offering the best in local design, jewellery, bags and accessories (there’s also a café that serves sandwiches and hearty cakes).

Harvey Nichols Manchester, 21 Cathedral Street M1 1AD (0161 828 8888). Selfridges, 1 Exchange Square M3 1BD (0870 837 7377). Manchester Arndale, M4 3AQ (0161 833 9851). Rags to Bitches, 60 Tib Street M4 1LG (0161 835 9265). Babycakes, Edge Street M4 1HW (0161 298 0607). Oaklahoma, 74 High Street M4 1ES (0161 834 1136). Craft & Design Centre, 17 Oak Street M4 5JD (0161 832 4274).

What Are You Like?
4 July-31 August. FREE entry; all ages.

If someone asked, how would you describe yourself? It’s a question that Manchester Art Gallery tackles this summer. Using a Victorian parlour game as inspiration, the Gallery has invited 45 well-known individuals to create ‘self-portraits’ comprised solely of some of their favourite things. The invited celebrities, including Quentin Blake, Lauren Child, Brian Eno, Anna Ford and author Philip Pullman have all decided upon a range of objects that mean something special to them. The resulting composite drawings, paintings, collages and photography are made up of an idiosyncratic array of animals, books, food and hobbies – and are a fascinating insight into what makes people tick. Your challenge is to guess which artwork belongs to whom and then, perhaps, have a go at making your own ‘portrait’ to hang in the Gallery.

Manchester Art Gallery, Mosely Street M2 3JL (0161 235 8888). Open: 10am-5pm Tues-Sun; closed Mon except Bank Hols.

Out and about: Manchester Art Gallery is the perfect place from which to explore Chinatown: just behind it, on Faulkner Street, is the imposing Imperial Chinese Archway, and there’s an array of Chinese restaurants to choose from nearby. Best among them, with a huge dining area that welcomes walk-in trade, is the Little Yang Sing. If you fancy something traditional, head to Sam’s Chophouse, where children get the pick of its fabulous British menu (kids have smaller servings of adult portions). It gets busy here over weekends and holidays, so you’d be advised to book. A little further out, in Castlefield (and just by MOSI), the award winning Sapporo Teppanyaki offers authentic Japanese cuisine with an added extra – the chefs are part cooks, part performers, bringing both food and entertainment right to your table. Perfect for older kids and teenagers.

Little Yang Sing, 17 George Street M1 4HE (0161 228 7722). Sam’s Chop House, Chapel Walks M2 1HN (0161 834 3210). Sapporo Teppanyaki, 91 Liverpool Road, Castlefield M3 4JN (0161 831 9888).

‘If you fancy traditional British cooking, then Sam’s is the place to go. It might be a beautiful old pub, but you don’t go there for the Victorian tiles. Menu highlights include brown onion soup, dumplings, roast beef, corned beef hash and steak and kidney pudding.’ Time Out Manchester

Family Friendly Film Festival.
7-16 August. Prices range from £0-£5; all ages.

The perennial holiday problem: what to do with the kids in the evening? Manchester’s Family Friendly Film Festival sets out to solve this conundrum with a host of events that take place in over 20 unusual venues, including the wildly popular late-night screenings in some of the city’s oldest buildings. With nothing costing more than a fiver (and many events completely free), it’s got to be better than booking a babysitter… Now in its fourth year, and lauded by the likes of the Guardian, the Family Friendly Film Festival includes a Mad Hatters tea party (complete with a screening of Alice in Wonderland), exclusive family films from Sweden, France and Australia (plus a chance to meet directors and crew) and a packed schedule of make-your-own-movie workshops. But it’s the festival’s late-night screenings programme that’s the real draw. Previous years have featured Harry Potter in the wonderfully Hogwarts-like setting of the John Rylands Library, while this year’s programme includes a tour of Victoria Baths. Here, as night falls, you’ll be able to watch a spooky screening of Ghostbusters. As you’d expect, these events sell out fast, so book early.

Family Friendly Film Festival, various venues across Manchester. Runs: 7-16 August.

Out and about: If film is your thing, you’d best head to Cornerhouse. This arts centre shows the best programme of arthouse cinema and foreign film in the city, alongside a changing programme of contemporary art in its three galleries. Cornerhouse also has a fabulous café (with free WiFi), whose floor-to-ceiling windows offer the perfect spot for people watching. Cornerhouse regularly attracts a students and hip, young crowd, so you’ll score brownie points if you take older children and teens here. We recommend the Reel Deal (a film, pizza and a drink for just £12, every Monday and Tuesday) or the regular Sunday Breakfast Club (full English breakfast plus a classic film for just £9.50). Again, booking is highly recommended.

Cornerhouse, 70 Oxford Street M1 5NH (0161 200 1500). Open (first floor café only): 11am-11pm Mon-Wed; 11am-12am Thurs-Sat; 11am-10.30pm Sun (check website for film times).

TRAVEL CHECKLIST

Hotels

Crowne Plaza Manchester City Centre: a new arrival, the mid-price Crowne Plaza is based in the Northern Quarter and offers the perfect base from which to explore the city centre. All rooms come with free WiFi and LCD TV, while there are also family rooms and interconnecting bedrooms.

Holiday Inn Manchester West: Clean, straightforward rooms, reasonable rates, provision of cots for the under 2s – this, plus the fact that there is no charge for children under 12 if using existing bedding – makes the Holiday Inn a safe bet.

The Lowry: The 5-star Lowry, with its sublime restaurant and celebrity-friendly décor, is surprisingly good for kids. The 5-star price includes mini slippers, robes and kiddie packs, access to videos and games, free dining for the under 10s (with paying adults), adjoining rooms and free cots. 50 Dearmans Place, Chapel Wharf M3 5LH.

Getting there

Manchester Airport (to the South of the city centre) is served by a regular rail connection to Piccadilly Station (every 15 minutes or so; journeys take around 20 minutes).

Piccadilly Station is the main railway station; the Metroshuttle operates a free bus service connecting this, and the other city railway stations, to the city centre. Buses run every 5-10 minutes.

First TransPennine Express are running a rather nifty summer for families living in the North of England – kids travel free on their trains from July 3- September 23 2009. For more details and terms and conditions, click here.

Tourist information

For all travel, hotels and tourist information, go to www.visitmanchester.com.

Once you’re in Manchester, check out the Visitor Information Centre on Lloyd Street, M60 2LA (0871 222 8223). Open 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat; 10.30am-4.30pm Sun & Bank Hols.

Main image (the one with the bears…) courtesy Tim Sinclair, Art Direction by Modern Designers.