Wood Chester

Ian Jones, Food and Drink Editor
Wood Chester
Ian Jones

Wood Chester is one of the most important additions to Chester’s food scene in recent years. But first, the back story. Back in 2015 Oldham chef Simon Wood won Masterchef and went on top open Wood on First Street, smack dab next to the nerve centre of the city’s arts scene, HOME. After a couple of years of resounding praise from across the city, the time has come to spread his wings.

Wood Chester continues Simon’s theme of ‘unintimidating high-end dining’

Cue Wood Chester. Part of Chester’s impressive Hotel Indigo, this continues Simon’s theme of ‘unintimidating high-end dining’. And this is precisely what you get, from location to decor, right down to the menu. The staff know their onions, but they aren’t stuffy about it – there’s no needless napkin-tucking or complex cutlery etiquette to navigate.

Early on a Saturday evening, the place is nicely busy, with a healthy range of diners that takes in sharply-dressed bon vivants and groups of twentysomethings having a pre-night out meal. The soundtrack matches the drapes, with a smart selection of classic rock and modern indie – a refreshing change from the usual trope of over-emotive pop covers, found in all too many restaurants across the North.

We opt for the tasting menu. As ever, this changes according to season, and the whims of the chef that day. My partner opts for the vegetarian menu, meaning I have the pleasure of trying each and every one of their courses, with the unassailable excuse “It’s for work, I don’t make the rules.”

Of course, this means your intrepid eater samples approximately twenty separate dishes, which is far too much for a snappy review, so let’s focus on the highlights.

From the vegetarian menu, the beetroot snack proves to be something special. A delightful pink macaron that firmly disproves my long-held belief that nothing beetroot can be good. An important sweetness is added to combat the murky earth flavour of this divisive root vegetable – it proves more than a mere little snack to introduce the meal.

Then there’s a small bowl of pea, asparagus, parmesan, a tidy layer of crisped panko breadcrumbs, plus an edible flower, because, well, why not? It’s a perfect, light early course, delicious enough to leave us wanting without overwhelming the senses.

Then, although not the most photogenic dish, the deconstructed cottage pie had my eyes bulging – enough so I droned on at length to my dining guest, until I was politely asked to “Give it a rest.” It’s worth it though, hints of treacle and stout run through it, contrasting with a creamy truffle-infused potato puree. Most people grew up on cottage pies, but you’ll never have tried anything quite so forward-thinking and packed with deep flavours as this.

A mushroom pasta dish on the vegetarian menu is possibly the most meaty-tasting dish of the evening, all thick onion-based gravy, with a sturdy little tortellini perched on top.

Back to actual meat, the assiette of lamb is a show-stopper. Sweetbreads, a thick piece of lamb with bone attached and topped with chopped kidneys, there’s a sense the menu so far was leading up to this. It’s a dramatic plate, set off with some crunchy green cabbage, without being too heavy or exhausting to eat, and well worth trying as a stand-alone main.

For dessert, the citrus tutti-frutti could well be the dish of the day – indeed it’s the one we both practically inhale, it’s so good. A thick creamy custard base, complemented with blobs of meringue and charred grapefruit. This latter ingredient is the key element, almost too harsh and abrasive alone, but paired with the creamy custard becomes a truly magical pairing.

Most Northern food-lovers know that Wood is something special, but this new menu is a step above even their recent tasting menus. Most courses are worth buying from the a la carte menu, but to have them laid out like this, with each dish an eye-opening swerve from the last, is to experience some of the very best food in Chester. It’s striking that a place so new already feels like part of Chester’s furniture, with a lack of fustiness and a long line of exciting plates that look and taste exquisite.

Grosvenor Park RoadChester,CH1 1QQ View map
Visit Now

Venue permanently closed.

What's on near Wood Chester

ChildrensCheshire
Christmas at Bolesworth

Come to Cheshire’s winter wonderland. A magical festive lights trail, Santa’s Grotto and more… This is a jam packed adventure for all the family.

from £20.00
Homotopia Festival 2023
Until
TheatreLiverpool
Homotopia Festival 2023

Performances, screenings, workshops, live music and conversation, Liverpool’s longest-running LGBTQ+ arts festival is back to celebrate its 20th anniversary.

from £8.00

Where to go near Wood Chester

Chester
Hotel
Hotel Indigo Chester

Hotel Indigo Chester is an elegant and welcoming hotel in the heart of this beautiful city, with the equally excellent Wood Chester as in-house restaurant.

Bar stock image
Cheshire
Bar or Pub
The Cornerhouse

Live music, comedy, quiz nights and special events – all to be enjoyed alongside sharing platters and, of course, an extensive range of drinks.

Grosvenor Park, Chester
Chester
Park
Grosvenor Park

Overlooking the River Dee to the south of the city, Grosvenor Park is one of Chester’s best-loved green spaces.

Mill Hotel & Spa, Chester
Chester
Hotel
Mill Hotel & Spa

Situated on an historic Roman site, the Mill Hotel & Spa was opened by its present owners in 1987. The original Griffiths Cornmill building dates from 1830 and great care has been taken to sympathetically incorporate many of the original architectural features during the conversion into a hotel.

Chester City Walls
Chester
Tourist Attraction
Chester City Walls

Chester’s city walls are the oldest, longest and most complete in Britain, parts of which are almost 2000 years old. The main access onto the walls is at each of the four main gateways – Northgate, Eastgate, Watergate and Bridgegate, plus there are many other steps around the city, some including accessible ramps.

Grey n Pink Records Chester
Chester
Shop
Grey n Pink Records

Grey n Pink Records has the largest selection of new, second hand and collectible vinyl records in Cheshire. Established for over 30 years in the Chester record shop, they specialise in collectible vinyl LPs, 7″ and 12″ singles.

Simon Radley, Chester Grosvenor
Chester
Hotel
Simon Radley, Chester Grosvenor

Experience ‘Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor’ – an award-winning restaurant named after renowned Executive Chef, Simon Radley. The restaurant has held a prestigious Michelin star since 1990 and has been awarded 4 AA Rosettes.

Gallery stock image
Cheshire
Gallery
Clarendon Fine Art

Contemporary art on display and for sale in Cheshire. Come and browse their varied collections and converse with knowledgeable staff.

ChesterBoat river cruise, Chester
Chester
Tourist Attraction
ChesterBoat

ChesterBoat is a family-owned business with more than forty year’s experience of welcoming visitors to the beautiful River Dee. They offer half-hour and two-hour sightseeing cruises, as well as private hires, fish and chip cruises, and themed party nights.

Chester
Wales Coast Path from Chester to Flint

The section of the North Wales Coast Path from Chester to Flint, starts off from Chester Station and the first section being unofficial isn’t way-marked. However, it offers pleasant urban walking and a stretch along the towpath of the Shropshire Union Canal, along Catherine Street to an area known as The Cop.

Bar stock image
Cheshire
Restaurant
Metronome Jazz Bar

This small and atmospheric bar is a cosy venue with a resident Jazz pianist, fantastic staff and a record player filled with, naturally, iconic jazz.

Culture Guides

Music in Manchester and the North

Spotlighting global artists who all, in one way or another, break the mould, we preview the best gigs happening this side of Christmas and beyond.