Salvi’s Pizzeria Napoletana

Offering a bold, cheery and bright cafe atmosphere ideal for dropping in whilst shopping or before a night out, Salvi’s Pizzera Napoletana is the new best place for pizza in Manchester city centre.

They also do something you’ve not had before: crochette, an enormous potato croquet. I had this in Melanzane Funghetto form, full of aubergine and basil. The potato comes out delightfully crisp.

A particular breed of broccoli, with a deep, wistful flavour

I also dived into the pizza menu, going first for a Paesano, made with friarelli, a particular breed of broccoli, with a deep, wistful flavour. I also had the Diavolo, a massive rush of live tomato, salami, nduja and chilli, and a Vesuvio calzone.

A theme running through all these options is the fior di latte mozzarella, which to my taste is much more warm and welcoming than the type you get in a shop.

How was I able to get through so much? Partly because I’m made that way and also because these pizzas are so light you can see the air bubbles in the dough. There’s no feeling of being stuffed. In fact, take a friend who doesn’t like pizza and see their mind change before you as they eat this, the real thing.

Take a friend who doesn’t like pizza and see their mind change before you as they eat this

And as well as seeing those air bubbles you can literally watch your pizza being cooked there and then in the oven behind the counter. What’s most impressive is the place is usually operated by just two staff, but they know exactly what they’re doing.