Lennox

Lennox is essentially a progression of Nico’s other, very famous restaurant network, Six By Nico. Indeed, Lennox inhabits the bricks and mortar of his first Manchester restaurant, Six By Nico Spring Gardens, leaving Six By Nico Deansgate over on John Dalton Street. 

I’ve visited both restaurants multiple times over the years and always had positive things to say. It’s an affordable entry point to the world of fine dining, less prissy than most and full of wild and wonderful ideas that reboot every month and a half, hence the name. 

Lennox takes that concept and gives it a boost. Rather than Six By Nico, it’s more like Thirty Or Forty Choices From Nico Chosen By You, but that’s a bit of a mouthful, so makes sense they went with Lennox. 

It’s a long menu, loosely separated into the usual courses – appetisers, starters, mini-mains, mains, sides, and so on – but you’re encouraged to play along with it, kinda like finey-diney tapas. 

Lennox retains the fun element of SBN and, in some cases, makes things even more out-there, as with the gossamer-light black pudding, quail egg Scotch egg construction. However, the best dishes run with this without going too far. 

The gnocchi dish is essentially three key elements: the pan-fried dumplings, slices of parmesan and deboned chicken wings. I’ll wager you haven’t had them together before, but it works like a charm. A little bit luxury, a little louche – even more so for those with deeper pockets than me, who opt to get the fresh truffle grated over it (an extra £14, for the beancounters), no doubt. 

The well-curated vegetarian menu serves up a couple more winners: the fried baby spuds (soft in the middle, crisped-up edges) and the beautifully cooked corn ribs, lightly dotted with feta and lazing in a coating of potent chilli-lime butter. 

Dessert of the day is a tower of pastry, cream and wafer-thin apple slices. It’s a textural marvel, easily inspired enough to warrant a promotion into the main menu league.  

Lennox is a smart idea from Nico, with bags of potential. The staff are as upbeat and helpful as ever – no surprise, as they’re the same crew as before – but free of the “six” constraints, the kitchen team are free to come up with interesting dishes of all sizes and costs. One to watch, for sure.