Harvey Nichols’ Second Floor Brasserie

Afternoon tea is one of those classic British inventions, cooked up by the greedy Duchess of Bedford in the early 19th century to provide a light meal between breakfast and dinner. Another British institution from the early 1800s, is Harvey Nichols, the Knightsbridge department store that now has branches all over the world, including, naturally, Manchester. What better than the two together?

This second-floor brasserie has quietly established itself as a place to escape the bustling city centre, whether it be working on that novel or somewhere to take grandmama for her birthday. The floor to ceiling windows deliver glorious views over the city, giving a birds-eye glimpse of how Manchester’s industrial past, still evident in the redbrick rooftops, contrast with the glass-and-chrome-filled ground level.

Endless tea, dainty sandwiches and the perennial scones with jam and cream

All well and good, but what about the food? The afternoon tea menu has been revamped for summer, designed by head pastry chef Kerrie Hacquoil, under the watchful eye of head chef Matthew Horsfield. Traditionalists can relax, the staples are all there: endless tea, dainty sandwiches and the perennial scones with jam and cream. But it’s the little flourishes that elevate it above other more workaday offerings.

The whole spread barely fits on the table. There’s a hefty pot of tea, a plate of sandwiches, and the sweets in pride of place on an open-sided mahogany box – a treat in each of the seven cubbyholes. The tea is exactly as it should be. Nothing fancy, nothing added, simply a gentle top-quality blend.

Things get more interesting with the sandwiches. A slender strip of herb-rimmed pastrami with a miniature gherkin speared through onto light white bread. The meat is rich and pink, as good as any Jewish deli. The classic cucumber sandwiches are faultless, delicate and airy, with a thin spread of cream cheese. Egg mayonnaise might not be the most glamorous filling but it wouldn’t be afternoon tea without it, and this is the best you’ll find – subtle and creamy, on fluffy triangles of white bread.

The Bavarian slice is an intricate combination of jam and vanilla cream, layered on fragile puff pastry, topped with a couple of plump raspberries

The smoked salmon sandwich offers more substance, thick chunks of seeded bread packed with lightly-heated strips of smoked salmon. These, along with chicken liver paté – presented in a cute glass jar alongside small circles of toasted brown bread – are the most memorable selections, but as good as they are, when it comes to presentation they can’t compete with the miniature cakes.

Then again, not much can. Faced with a bookshelf full of bright reds, creamy whites and amber browns, the struggle is what to have first. Start light. The Bavarian slice is an intricate combination of jam and vanilla cream, layered on fragile puff pastry, topped with a couple of plump raspberries. Equally light are the bright pink macarons (not to be confused with stodgier cake-like macaroons), brittle and sugary on the surface, with a soft chewy centre.

One cake stands out above the rest. The carrot cake neatly illustrates the Harvey Nichols approach, matching classic tastes with splashes of innovation. This is a robust cake base, topped with a thick blob of white chocolate frosting, with a velvet red ribbon of pickled carrot artfully swirled on top.

Thankfully, Harvey Nichols skips the pomp and circumstance – nothing makes the heart sink faster than vintage crockery and floral doilies

The Eton mess makes inspired use of fluffy marshmallow chunks, along with the time-honoured combination of strawberry jam, whipped cream and meringue, while the chocolate delice rocky road should satisfy all chocolate-lovers.

When it comes to afternoon tea, there’s a risk that the traditions and rituals can get in the way – nothing makes the heart sink faster than vintage crockery and floral doilies. Thankfully, Harvey Nichols skips the pomp and circumstance, offering a laid-back but always sophisticated experience. With its elegant food and stunning views, it’s hard to think of anywhere better to while away the day.