Blanconero
Daisy Miles
Salford Quays: Manchester’s Riviera. Maybe the weather is a big give-away, but if you close your eyes (and sit inside) you could almost be in Italy.
Two years ago, Alessandro Rizzi did as the Romans do, and came to conquer Salford. He and Gavin Williams set up Blanconero as a coffee shop – the original site is still operating out of Anchorage Quay. With the locals satisfied by their Italo-centric coffee, they’ve opened a second site in Mediacity, now offering a food menu that’s ambitious in size and transportive in taste.
I do judge a place by its bread. Unapologetically. I think there’s scope for a Manchester review series that awards ratings on bread alone. When that happens, Blanconero might make top of the list.
The focaccia is made in-house, daily. “It comes out of the oven around 11 am, so when you’re buying your lunch, it’s most likely the freshest sandwich you’ve ever bought,” says Gavin. “We tried and tested many recipes until we found exactly what we were looking for.”
We get the focaccia with pistachio mortadella, mozzarella, and pesto. The focaccia is, I imagine, an Italian equivalent to that signature roast potato that you’ve nailed after years of practice. Fluffy insides, crispy exterior, and whole flakes of sea salt overhead. It tastes like time, work, and passion have been sunk into it. And the pesto-pistachio combination is an age-old winner.
We also get the lasagne with spicy Calabrian sausage, smoked scarmoza cheese and nduja. Although, this almost doesn’t happen, as the lasagne menu is the largest I’ve ever seen.
There are a staggering seven different lasagnas to choose from, meaning making a decision is a task that requires either time, pre-planning, or pure strength. Or maybe I just regret not getting them all.
“The idea actually came from Alessandro’s mother visiting Manchester a few years ago,” says Gavin. “We always wanted to offer something you can’t get anywhere else, and the lasagnas really are unique. We’re always trying to come up with new ideas – even our Valentine’s Tiramisu we’re launching next week is a mix of flavours never seen before in Tiramisu… we’re always thinking of what to do next and how we can offer something different.”
The cannolis at Blanconero are a bit of a scene-stealer. They seem innocuous; we’ve all seen a cannoli before. But just get one. They’re only little – but they come in swinging with huge flavour.
We settle on both the pistachio and salted caramel – both wrapped in a sweet and nutty pastry. It’s one of those pastries you can’t fake. Pre-packaged or supermarket equivalents have their own charm, but they’re a completely different item. Blanconero’s cannoli is sweet pastry that takes itself seriously.
The coffee, of course, is perfect. It’s what Gavin and Alessandro started with. It’s the reason all these lasagnes are here. I get an espresso, as well as my latte, just to double check. The result is one that the most hair-splitting Italian would be pleased with.
Blanconero’s loyalty to authentic Italian food doesn’t hold it back from expanding customers’ palates. Like Picasso, they nailed the basics early on, so that they can now play with more inventive re-imaginings of the classics. It’s both an homage and a look into the future. What have the Romans ever done for us? The answer: lots and lots of lasagne.
