Where The Light Gets In

It’s all change at Stockport’s Where The Light Gets In. Out with the extensive tasting menus, replaced by a new streamlined menu – five courses, designed to share between two or more. 

What’s that? “Fewer courses bad, more courses good!” we hear you cry. Not in this case. These dishes simply wouldn’t work as bitesize steps on a dozen-strong menu. 

Sure, there are pint-sized marvels along the way, but they pave the way for a glorious fillet of fish, followed by a full-flavoured cut of meat. 

Some dishes have a subtle Asian influence and you’ll find intricate prep techniques behind deceptively modest dishes, but overall it’s a conscious step away from the fiddly, foamy gastronomy which has dominated the fine dining scene for years.

The reboot comes courtesy of chef and founder, Sam Buckley. He tells us how he felt the old tasting menus got out of hand, too finicky, too elaborate. 

He also admits to having no idea what other chefs are doing, in Manchester and beyond. It explains why Where The Light Gets In is such a unique experience – no trend-chasing, no algorithms. 

The core principles remain. Everything is sustainably sourced, if not from the restaurant’s urban garden, then as local as possible. 

The atmosphere crackles – a natural midpoint between the militance of Mana and the genteel feel of Skof. It’s a thrilling place to be. 

As for the dishes, there’s a lot of heart in this menu, literally and figuratively. Word to the wise, bread and butter is a must – there are sauces, veloutés and glazes that demand soaking up. 

Standout moments include the chicken heart skewers from the snacks section – little nuggets of pleasure in a plum and green coriander seed sauce. 

The fish course is a textural marvel. Soft buttery skate wing flesh is set off by a careful charring at the edges – vorsprung durch fisch engineering – with a bright, almost sweet, ratatouille-adjacent confit byaldi on the side.

Then there’s the chicken breast sliced over a tart damson sauce, shiso leaves on hand to wrap the meat at the table – a playful variation on Korean ssambap with a bold botanical lift from the shiso. 

If you’re a star-watcher, you’ll know that Where The Light Gets In received a ‘Green’ Michelin award in 2021, but is yet to receive the top accolade. There might be a long wait – it’s hard to think of anyone less-suited to following the precise rules and regulations of Michelin HQ than Buckley. 

And that’s what makes Where The Light Gets In one of the North’s most singular restaurants. It’s upscale dining you can’t find anywhere else, and an easy match for any of Manchester’s top restaurants. Put simply: exceptional food in beautiful surroundings.