Banyan Bar & Kitchen

Can you please everyone all of the time? With its wide-ranging menu, Banyan Bar and Kitchen is attempting to do just that.

Based in the newly spruced-up Corn Exchange, a stone’s throw from Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Manchester Cathedral, Banyan Bar and Kitchen blends in well with its neighbours. Heavy on the glass, steel and exposed brickwork, it’s appealing in that classically Mancunian way: industrial but welcoming. It’s one of the larger spaces in the Corn Exchange’s already thriving food court, and bills itself as a one-stop-shop, serving food from breakfast right through to late evening, as well as post-shopping coffee and cake, and evening cocktails.

A glance at the menu confirms that a dizzying array of food is on offer, ranging from steak pies to Indonesian curry, via mediterranean flatbread and teriyaki pork. Practically every continent is represented: Banyan comes across as a gastro United Nations trying to cater for everyone (although, despite the banyan being the national tree of India, that country’s cuisine is oddly absent). In trying to do so much, does the overall quality suffer?

Banyan comes across as a gastro United Nations; trying to cater for everyone

Happily, the starters put any concerns about standards to bed. The deep fried brie wedges make inspired use of Japanese breadcrumbs: the bristly crunch giving way to a gooey, tangy centre. This is mirrored in the tempura prawns, where a crisp, light batter gives bite to the plump, meaty contents. The pak choi provides a fresh contrast to the richness of the prawns. Portions are well-sized, enough to satisfy without being overwhelming – although slightly overpriced at nearly seven pounds each.

The high quality of the ingredients carries through to the mains. The fillet steak is a hefty lump: almost crispy on the outside and a beautiful bouncy pink within. The signature Banyan burger towers impressively on the plate, stacked with so many different elements it borders on confusing. It tastes as sinful as the best burgers: a bawdy combination of burger meat, bacon, mustard, BBQ sauce and Monterey Jack cheese. The only negative is the needless addition of an onion ring, rendered sad and soggy by the burger’s juices.

The desserts are faultless. The passion fruit cheesecake exceeds expectations; it’s elegant to the eye, and sweet without being cloying. The Bakewell Tart with raspberry ripple ice cream is even better, with crumbly buttery pastry making for a simple, clean take on the classic dish.

Disappointingly, the wine doesn’t match up; the Shiraz proves thin and vinegary, barely suitable for cooking. The cocktails are a different story. The Violette plays upon the recent vogue for gin, making a stunning floral combination in one of the best looking drinks this side of a Bond film. The Berry Collins is less of a visual treat but just as delicious – pleasantly sour balanced with an intense sweetness.

The atmosphere is fun, and lively even on a wet Sunday evening. The friendly, if slightly inexperienced, staff are eager to help, buzzing around to a background soundtrack of Britpop hits and classic rock. We exit to Carly Simon’s ‘Nobody Does It Better’ (which is, coincidentally, the slogan of Banyan’s parent group, Arc Inspirations). ‘Nobody’ is pushing it a tad, but with a few tweaks, this could certainly rival some of the better bar-restaurants on the Deansgate strip. It’s a place designed to appeal to everyone, and manages it surprisingly well.