Tariff & Dale, 2 Tariff Street, Manchester, M1 2FN – Visit Now
You’ll find Tariff and Dale in the Northern Quarter at the junction of Tariff and Dale Streets. Opened by the owner of The Lead Station in Chorlton, T&D is very particular about not being a restaurant, insisting on the more casual “bar and kitchen.” Based on my first couple of visits they’ve got the bar nailed and the kitchen less so.
Good things: the building’s cool. The dining room downstairs is handsome, and the bar has a decent range of craft beer by the can (Beavertown galore), and on tap. Pizza featured a burly sourdough crust and toppings ranging from classic margherita to the suddenly ubiquitous spreadable Italian sausage ‘Nduja (I blame Rudy’s Pizza). The house snack of choice, pork nuggets, sounds silly but get over the name and they’re absurdly moreish. The servers were friendly jokey sorts, knew their menu, and brought everything on time.
And yet, the Sunday roast (beef, avec trimmings) was nothing special, while the beetroot risotto was inadvisably jazzed up with shouty tastes like porcini and orange zest. A salad of grilled salmon delivered very little food or flavour, being mainly a lettuce job. The final proof of a hungry gap between ambition and actuality came with dessert. What was listed as ‘pea and white chocolate’ on the rather terse menu turned out to be a curiously bland ring of pea and white chocolate fondant around a scoop of coconut ice cream.
I’d come back, but for now it’s a place to order conservatively, while the kitchen masters the basics. And I hope they do.