PLY, 26 Lever Street, Manchester, M1 1DW – Visit Now
PLY boasts grown-up décor and a funky pizza oven – so was it worth the (long) wait?
PLY doesn’t like to hurry itself. This new pizza restaurant in the Northern Quarter had its opening party on 27 March 2015, several months overdue (we first went to the site and were introduced to the mirror-tiled “disco ball pizza oven” in August 2014). Since then, it’s taken three and a half months simply to hone the pizza dough. The official line? “The owners are perfecting certain aspects of the dough-making process”.
God only knows what the public, who’ve been eating there since PLY’s opening, have been faced with. A cat-dough-strophe? A trage-dough? After months of waiting, was Ply looking like a complete dough-saster?
After protracted opening PLY is now fully functional, and at peak dough
Again, no. First off, we’re fans of the décor: channelling a strong European vibe, with designer chairs, hexagonal light fittings and concrete floors, PLY manages to feel grown-up without losing all sense of fun. Take the disco ball pizza oven as an example; it might look jazzy, but was built by a team specially imported from Naples. The cocktails were satisfyingly complex, but still tasty – we especially recommend the rum, spiced peach and mint muddled Sinnerman. My Portobello pizza was drizzled with some superb garlic oil and The Beard proclaimed happily that the extra ‘nudja he’d requested for his artichoke and pig’s cheek pizza was so spicy he would probably lose the power of speech in a bit.
The irony of PLY’s protracted opening is that, now it’s fully functional, and at peak dough, it can cook a pizza in 90 seconds.
This is an independent review, but our writer didn’t pay for her meal. For more info on our editorial policy, read our About page.