Manchester International Festival: Weekend One

Polly Checkland Harding

It doesn’t take long for the transformative power of Manchester International Festival to sink in: every two years, a unique atmosphere takes hold of the city for 18 extraordinary days. Radiating out from the buzzing Festival Square in front of the Town Hall, the world’s first festival of original, new work and special events occupies spaces and places across Manchester: at previous festivals, commissions by the likes of Punchdrunk, Marina Abramović, Björk and Kenneth Branagh have unfolded in theatres, galleries, railway depots, churches and car parks around the city.

Spend a weekend exploring MIF17 and you’ll be among the first to see more than 20 world premieres from over 30 international artists – shows that will travel to cities as diverse as Hong Kong and Vienna. The first Festival under Artistic Director John McGrath, MIF17 positions itself as remarkably responsive to current world affairs: many of the events that make up this year’s programme have evolved in a reactionary way to the seismic, global changes that have occurred over the last 12 months. It’s a remarkable, ambitious programme, broken down here into an itinerary of highlights – a cultural trail through the opening weekend of MIF17, if you will.

MIF is one of the best ways of discovering a city rich in international culture, with lively bars, acclaimed restaurants and vibrant, independent shops bringing new life to the industrial heritage that’s still evident in its buildings, canals and landmarks. Straightforward to navigate on foot, Manchester is connected up by trams and buses, including three, free Metroshuttle routes that begin at Piccadilly station and cover much of the city. With direct rail links to London and cities across the North, it’s an easy place to get to – and, with this MIF17 itinerary, simpler still to get to know.

Friday 30 June

Begin delving into Manchester by exploring MIF17’s Music for a Busy City installation (8am-8pm, 30 June – 16 July, free), which brings extraordinary new music out of the concert hall and into the public realm. If you’re taking advantage of MIF’s deal with The Principal Manchester*, the Official Hotel Provider for the Festival, step out from the terracotta front of this stunning, Grade II-listed building – which dates back to 1890 – and you’re only a 12-minute walk from the Great Northern Warehouse, a Music for a Busy City location. Here, you’ll find a new work by composer and producer Matthew Herbert, one of six new pieces of music written in response to specific city-centre spaces and designed to introduce unexpected sounds to familiar places in Manchester. Diversions nearby include champagne bar Épernay, ‘bier palace’ and ‘cook haus’ Albert’s Schloss – or, if you have sugar cravings, Home Sweet Home, purveyor of bonkers, towering cakes (alongside savoury things).

Mohammed Fairouz’s Music for a Busy City composition in St Ann’s Square is your next destination. Stop at Lunya in the beautiful Victorian Barton Arcade just off the square, where the Spanish tapas is fresh, authentic and a great option for an evening meal. Alternatively, continue on to Anna Meredith’s Music for a Busy City inside the walkway between Selfridges and Marks & Spencer – via the high-end clothes shops along Cathedral Street – before ordering one of 42 wines by the glass from Salut’s unusual Enomatic wine dispensers on your way back to Manchester Town Hall, where you’ll find Huang Ruo’s Music for a Busy City composition and MIF17’s Festival Square.
Round out the night with a performance from powerhouse vocal trio LaSharVu in the Pavilion Theatre (7.30pm, tickets £12) and, if you’ve not already eaten, take your pick of Indian street food, wood-fired pizza, bistro food or British classics from the four resident kitchens in Festival Square.

Saturday 1 July

Breakfast presents the ideal opportunity to explore Manchester’s buzzing Northern Quarter, where the former textiles warehouses with their New York-style fire escapes are now frequently used as filming locations. Keep your eyes peeled for the public art dotted around the area as you head for a New Zealand-style brunch at Federal Café & Bar, beautifully fresh food at Evelyn’s or a classic fry-up at the legendary Koffee Pot. Also not to be missed is the Northern Quarter’s excellent range of independent shops, including Oklahoma with its brilliantly-chosen, quirky gifts, Piccadilly Records, which has been open since 1978, and Manchester Craft & Design Centre, where you can buy direct from the makers in 18 different craft studios.

Just on the other side of the Northern Quarter, over Great Ancoats Street, is the historic district of Ancoats, home to the Grade II listed deconsecrated church where the first weekend of MIF17’s Interdependence: We Need to Talk conversation series takes place (Hallé St. Peter’s, 10.30am and 2pm, 1, 8 and 15 July, tickets £5 per session / £10 per day). Alternatively, make your way into the city centre and towards Manchester Art Gallery for True Faith (10am-5pm, 30 June – 16 July, continues after MIF17 until 13 September free), in which seminal cover designs, music videos and posters are combined with work by outstanding contemporary artists, for an exhibition that explores the legacy of local bands New Order and Joy Division. From here, admire the beautiful glass dome inside The Portico Library, which opened in 1806, explore the moreish restaurants and packed supermarkets of Chinatown behind the gallery, or head to King Street for lunch and shopping; the award-winning El Gato Negro serves up some of the best Spanish influenced food in the city.

As the day turns into evening, hop on a tram out to MediaCityUK (the largest media hub in Europe and home to the BBC), and HOME1947 at The Lowry (10am-7pm, 1-9 July, free): this immersive installation from two-time Academy Award-winning filmmaker Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy features a series of short films reflecting on the experiences of the 10 million people who were displaced by the Partition of British India, drawing on their 70-
year-old memories and exploring the notion of ‘home’ against the backdrop of today’s migrant crisis. If you have time, explore IWM North on the other side of the Manchester Ship Canal before returning to The Lowry for food at Pier Eight and Sangam 2017 (7.30pm, tickets from £25), a one-off concert of Sufi music featuring Sanam Marvi from Pakistan and Harshdeep Kaur from India, that marks the opening night of HOME1947. A bus or tram will take you back to the city centre, and bed – or to The Refuge, the beautifully appointed restaurant in The Principal Manchester where the bar stays open until 2am, usually with someone on the decks.

Sunday 2 July

Your first MIF stop this morning is the Whitworth art gallery for not one but two MIF commissions – but first: breakfast. The Refuge at The Principal Manchester serves roasts throughout the day on a Sunday, with sides that include Vimto-braised red cabbage. Alternatively, Gorilla offers breakfast and brunch from 9am until 4pm, ranging from a granola fruit bowl to a full English, by way of buttermilk pancake stacks and shakshouka – while the simple brunch menu at arts centre HOME (available until 4pm) is a good excuse to drop into La Movida (12pm-6pm Sundays, until 17 July, free), a group exhibition exploring the socio-cultural renaissance in post-Franco Spain.

Next, make your way down Oxford Road by either walking or taking the bus: The University of Manchester and Manchester Metropolitan University are both to be found here, boasting Hogwarts-esque buildings, the Holden Art Gallery and some serious alumni between them. If you’re on foot, drop into the Gothic, Grade-II*-listed Manchester Museum to see Object Lessons (10am-5pm, until 20 August, free), a showcase of over 200 outstanding and rare science teaching objects – otherwise, continue on to the Whitworth to see two very different, but equally fascinating exhibitions.

No End to Enderby (10am-5pm, 30 June – 16 July, free), which continues after MIF17 until 17 September, is a tribute to Manchester polymath Anthony Burgess in the year of what would have been his 100th birthday. Created by director Graham Eatough and artist Stephen Sutcliffe, the installation features two new films that respond to Burgess’s ‘Enderby’ series, alongside the original sets they were shot in.

ToGather (10am-5pm, 30 June – 16 July, free), which also continues beyond MIF to 3 September, is the work of artist Susan Hefuna. This exhibition uses palmwood constructions (echoing the boxes that dot Cairo’s streets), personal objects, drawings, new digital work and glass cases to create a ‘mental map’ across several rooms in the gallery and parts of the neighbouring Whitworth Park, reflecting on migration and sensations of separation and togetherness. Worth a visit before heading back into town is the beautifully restored Elizabeth Gaskell’s House (11am-4.30pm Sunday, tickets £4.95 / £3.95 conc.) – particularly for tea and cake in what was the Gaskells’ kitchen.

Otherwise, you can either return back up Oxford Road to watch the live radio broadcast of MIF’s One of Two Stories, or Both at Old Granada Studios (6.30pm, 30 June – 4 July, tickets £5), followed by dinner at your choice between excellent steak restaurant Hawksmoor on Deansgate, the stunning surrounds of Tattu in Spinningfields or the unusual pizzas at Crazy Pedro’s close to the People’s History Museum – or return to Festival Square for food and drinks before watching Hookworms + Carla dal Forno at the Pavilion Theatre (7.30pm, tickets £12) to finish the evening – and your weekend at MIF17 – in energetic style.

* 20% off the best available rate. Please quote “MIF” over the phone or enter the promotion code ‘MIF’ in the relevant section online when booking.

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