The Adelphi Leeds

A stone’s throw from the city centre, hunched on a corner on the southside of Leeds Bridge, The Adelphi Leeds has just reopened to much pomp and ceremony. This legendary Leeds lager lounge underwent a £250,000 refurb, keeping its original Victorian exterior and just adding a fresh lick of paint. It’s the innards that have been completely revamped, with old carpets and cheap upholstery chucked in the skip and replaced with new herringbone wooden flooring and a snazzy leather finish, each of its several rooms adopting a different colour.

My visit today is to try out the new menu, something The Adelphi has spent almost as much time spit-shining than the interior design, in hope of cajoling a more culinary clientele through its heavy wooden doors. On entering, the red room to the right is clearly the primary dining space. So here I sit.

I start with the deep-fried Camembert, two warm lumps of luxury lactose with chicory and cucumber, a drizzle of pomegranate molasses and a welcome little pile of chutney. It is a glorious starter, cheese cooked to perfection with salad so alive I’m half expecting it to start talking politics.

It’s a Friday, I’m pescetarian, so the fish and chips seem the logical choice for main. It’s a handsome cod that when dressed in its light batter suit looks dapper enough to charm a mermaid. The fish breaks apart nicely, making it easier to scoop up with the triple-cooked chips and “crushed” (posh for mushy) minted peas, stirred in with a chunky tartare sauce.

Unused to eating three-course meals at lunch, I’m struggling with the very idea of any of the desserts, and I’m pleasantly surprised when the chocolate brownie is served with a moderate-sized sphere of hazelnut ice cream. When the spoon hits the luscious warm brownie, it crumbles apart like Prince Andrew’s reputation post-Newsnight, and the crunchy ice cream melts like your heart welcoming a new puppy to the family. It’s not big, but it’s very nice.

The menu at Adelphi Leeds does change around a bit with daily specials and festive offerings so check their website. It also has a huge upstairs room that can seat 90+ people – perfect for Christmas dos – plus the rear garden area offers cover from rain and heaters so smokers are well catered for.