Review by Joe Daly: One of Manchester’s most beloved Italian restaurants, Salvi’s, has opened up another spot on the corner of the Northern Quarter – the Northern Corner perhaps? It is important to note that whilst Salvis, the restaurant in question, does serve pizza and is very well served by its Naples traditions, it is not a Neapolitan pizza restaurant so expect no comparisons to Rudy’s or any other popular spots of the moment. Salvi’s is a traditional Italian restaurant concentrating as much on solid cuts of fish and meat as it is on the carb heavier side of Southern European cuisine.
Salvi’s NQ feels like a labour of love and the feeling never leaves you
From the minute you step inside the cosy and unintimidating atmosphere of Salvi’s Northern Quarter, it feels like a labour of love and the feeling never leaves you. The continual checks from staff members never feels intrusive, it feels generous, the pats on the arm after a check on the quality of the Negroni are welcoming rather than unwanted and the food is comforting and so much more than that.
My partner and I started with the olives – as good as you’d expect from a restaurant with a well-regarded deli attached – and a cocktail, the negroni was a good solid, well-made cocktail that stands up to any in a city that seems to have fallen in love with them going by its appearance near on everywhere over the last year.
The saffron risotto with peas and mozzarella proves, unsurprisingly that Italian vegetarian food done well can match up to any meat options. Though the cod challenges that, especially when served with potatoes that prove quality of ingredients win out over any additions above salt and olive oil.
My dining companion posits that this is the best meal she’s ever had at Salvi’s
The food is as great as Salvi’s has ever been and, indeed, after trying all the various iterations, my dining companion posits that this is the best meal she’s ever had at Salvi’s. I have to agree with the bold claim, with the wines also standing up strong – the Gavi is a particular highlight with a smokiness that lends itself well to both the cod and the risotto.
Salvi’s isn’t trying to make a point about tradition, Neapolitan or Italian or anything, it’s just quietly getting on with proving that care for ingredients, attention to the restaurant, and a clear love of what you do and the way you do it is worth your attention, and the chance at another spot in the city.