L.o.T (Lamb of Tartary)

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Lamb Of Tartary is no more; long live LoT. Along with an easier-to-say name, the menu has been revamped, shifting away from medieval Britain toward a Eurasian theme intended to track the Silk Road. 

The decor has been spruced up too. The much-loved high ceilings are still there, but the look is fresher – more mood lighting, more gold, more modern. Expect a more dynamic, energetic feel, with the odd guest DJ so the weekends feel more weekendy. 

The menu is made up of mostly small plates, with a few opening acts – grab about three each, with an appetiser to nibble on if you’re hungry. This section includes the creamy, tangy whipped feta, topped with confit tomatoes, coriander and togarashi (a Japanese spice blend, heavy on chilli, sesame and citrus aromas). Grab some of the grilled khoubz flatbread to mop it all up with – slowly tearing it apart is practically an ASMR experience by itself. 

These grazing dishes are priced well, at around £5, and could easily make a nice light lunch. The rest of the menu is split into raw, meat & fish, vegetable and sweet sections, all full of unique ideas and reasonably priced (around the £10 mark for these larger plates).

The raw section is bold idea, offering up everything from beef fillet tataki, to the highly recommended stone bass. This gentle white fish is lightly cured, then sliced and mixed together with slivers of pickled green strawberries. Finally, a thin ponzu sauce is added, giving the plate a zingy, zesty feel.

From the meat section, the Indo-Chinese lemon chicken thigh is a must. The chicken thigh is first brined and then fried to give it a crunchy coating. Then, it’s treated to a zigzag of bright sauce across the top, made up of Chinese lemon, chilli and pepper. The meat is wonderfully soft and salty, and that lemon dressing adds a new, bold element to it all.

The richest dish on the menu? It doesn’t get more robust than the pitch-black shwarma-spiced lamb shoulder. This pressed slab of meat is dense, dark and packed with Middle Eastern spices – which means pleasingly heavy on cinnamon and garlic. The Thai basil herb salad on the side couldn’t be more different: a fresh light yin to the lamb’s murky yang.

Happily, as much attention to detail is paid to the vegetables section. Case in point, the boat-shaped blackened aubergine, with some of the flesh scooped out and replaced with mouth-watering slow-cooked tomato. This is topped with fresh holy basil and toasted peanuts for texture and taste.

The hispi cabbage is another standout dish. Rather than the more commonplace spicy version, LoT’s incorporates milder, sweet flavours, based on miso butter, crispy shallots and dill. It’s deliciously different and a must for fans of charred, crunchy cabbage.

Lamb Of Tartary’s original menu was certainly no disappointment – how could it be when it comes from the same stable as the mighty Edinburgh Castle Pub in Ancoats? – but this revamped set of dishes is a much better fit for this fast-moving Northern Quarter location. The range is wider and more exciting, and everything has that deft touch we’ve come to expect from executive chef Shawn Moffat.