Stanley’s Bar & Grill
Ian Jones, Food and Drink Editor
Stanley’s Bar & Grill is the in-house restaurant at Liverpool’s stunning Titanic Hotel, just a short drive, or slightly longer walk, from the city centre. The restaurant is immediately impressive, all high ceilings, mahogany fixtures and plenty of space. So much space. It’s a far cry from the charming-but-cramped restaurants that populate the city centre and makes for a laid back, relaxing atmosphere.
The menu is largely based around British classics, with enough interesting touches and flair to make every dish exciting in its own way. It’s clear the goal is to both impress and satisfy. But does it succeed?
We begin with the crispy cod cheek goujons which, true, look a little like Birds Eye fish fingers, but only if they were intended for the table of King Solomon himself. They arrive sat on a dab of warm, comforting pea puree, next to a dollop of neatly contrasting tartar sauce – a sauce which puts the emphasis firmly on tart. This cheek-puckering vinegary sourness works wonders with the delicate battered cod, making for a stellar opening dish.
For mains, the braised pork belly is an instant classic. A hefty hunk of meat, matched with a deliciously sticky red wine sauce, sprigs of tenderstem broccoli and the perfect complement, a perfectly cooked – dense but not claggy – bean casserole, finished off with a crispy circle of fried chorizo. It’s a fantastic marriage of flavours, earthy and packed with countryside aromas.
The vegan Thai green curry is just as impressive. So much so my dining partner declares “You know when you try something and you think ‘Oh, so this is how it’s meant to taste’? This is that.” It’s an attractive plate too, all swirls of colour and neatly-cooked slivers of onion, mushroom and carrot, plus other secret ingredients that all combine to make a superb not-too-hot curry.
For dessert, our waiter strongly recommends the sticky toffee pudding. It’s a no-brainer. It’s a large portion, almost too big, but hands-down delicious. The slab of pudding comes drenched in a sticky toffee sauce and topped with an impossibly rich vanilla ice cream, which in turn is topped with a thick hard chunk of honeycomb. It’s the finest toffee pudding you’ll find in Liverpool, by some measure.
The vegan chocolate brownie stands up well too. Pleasingly firm but not stodgy, it comes dotted with chunks of fruit, a blueberry here, half a strawberry there, that creates an eye-catching plate of animal-free eating.
It might be a short trip away from the city centre, but Stanley’s Bar & Grill feels like a whole new world. The food is some of the finest in the city, varied enough to feel exciting and inspired, while traditional enough to feel like British dining at its best. Plus you’ll find a flourish to each dish that elevates each far above the norm. If you’re looking for one of Liverpool’s best restaurants, either for a romantic occasion or to an impress a business colleague, look no further.
