Grill On New York Street
Martin Kevill
The cultural vacuum between Chinatown and Piccadilly Gardens is palpable. There’s an infuriating one-way system that ushers you into the path of oncoming trams and all the roads are all called Charlotte or Clive. Unless you’re working in a bank or looking for a Sainsbury’s Local, it’s just a bit odd.
There is, however, a plentiful supply of dining options and the best is on a road called New York Street. Being named after one of the best cities in the world, you’d be forgiven for expecting big things, but New York Street is essentially a disorientating stretch of concrete littered with multi-story car parks and bollards.
The menu has a gut-busting choice of nibbles and starters
Grill on New York Street is a Blackhouse production and part of prolific Manchester conglomerate, Living Ventures, the group behind Australasia and Grand Pacific. It opened its doors in 2011 and underwent quite the makeover in 2017, with exposed brickwork and red leather chairs brought in to improve the interior. An upgraded bar also transformed the restaurant into a good place for drink or two, even if you’re not here for food.
The menu has a gut-busting choice of nibbles and starters, with Cumbrae oysters casually sitting up top for those looking to take things to the next sea level. The Goan chicken skewers were light and tender, while the smoked salmon roulade was as easy on the eyes and creamy on the palate. There’s a lot to take in, so come hungry. Peckish at the very least.
As with most quality grills, you can pick up some excellent seafood dishes, with the chargrilled swordfish and grilled lobster looking most likely to wow the crowds. There’s another section with burgers, grilled chicken salads, roast chicken and fajita dishes, halloumi kebabs and steak sandwiches, so you’re not backed into a corner and force-fed cow. Everything reads like a great order, so don’t fret if you’re looking beyond Daisy’s backside.
There’s a lot to take in, so come hungry
That said, we ordered beef. We were lured in by the little dotted line around the beef section on the menu. To me, a dotted line suggests quality; something a little special. If I had a spare dotted line, I’d put it around the best part of the menu.
“Beef please, waiter”
The Australian Aberdeen Black Angus fillet steak weighs in at 280g, its ‘raindrop’ marbling giving it a wagyu-like je ne sais quoi and the depth is impressive. This month’s British Single Breed ribeye weighs in at about seven stone, comes from Herefordshire and spreads across the plate like an arrogant man sitting on the Tube, leaving little room for the incredible mature cheddar and spring onion mash I ordered on the side.
Cooked to our preference of medium rare, the steaks come stinking of thick, meaty smoke and look incredible; pictures won’t do the tone or scale any justice. The ribeye’s deep red outer shell has a light crisp to it and is warm and smoky. A sprinkling of sea salt brings it to life. The Aberdeen Black Angus fillet falls apart at the knife and doesn’t actually need chewing. It’s as tender as ever and a joy to consume… piece after piece of delightful steak.
At one point I actually think I can hear the taste
There’s flavour everywhere; the back of the mouth, in the nose, down the throat… at one point I actually think I can hear the taste. I can see why there’s a dotted line now; Grill on New York Street knows how to prepare beef.
There’s a 28-day wet and dry ageing process and the cuts are air-dried for 24 hours in a Himalayan Rock salt chamber. It sounds like a spa treatment you’d find on Groupon, but it clearly works for the meat. It’s not cheap, but you’re guaranteed something special if you’re looking for exceptional quality.
You’re guaranteed something special if you’re looking for exceptional quality
The waiting team are charismatic and confident, ready to talk you through any aspect of the menu, recommend wines and offer any personal opinions on particular dishes. As a result, we finished with a smoky old fashioned affogato, which came with a jar of grill smoke to waft across the table. In my opinion, smell is definitely in the top five human senses and with memories of childhood campfires accompanying a beautiful creamy coffee, this was a charming way to finish a big, tasty night at the Grill.
