Mamucium, 6 Todd St, Manchester, M3 1WU – Visit Now
Mamucium is a snazzy new(ish) restaurant attached to the equally-snazzy Hotel Indigo, a hop, skip and jump from Victoria train station in one of Manchester’s dozen or so ‘quarters’.
Now, with the honourable exception of The Lowry Hotel, restaurants attached to hotels are usually more hit than miss, having to appeal to unadventurous travelling businessfolk and giving up on pushing boundaries. Not so with Mamucium. The food is pleasingly high quality, all locally sourced and it comes as no surprise that the head chef is Andrew Green, formerly of the aforementioned Lowry Hotel’s River Restaurant.
The head chef is Andrew Green, formerly of the Lowry Hotel’s excellent River Restaurant
Tuesdays are now steak nights, with beef coming direct from Manchester’s bete noire butcher, Lee Horsley Frost, aka Frosty Butcher, aka one of the marvellous array of grown men in Manchester’s food world who have a reputation for being rude on Twitter, god bless ‘em.
The beef is British, with all the classic cuts on offer, plus a few lesser well-known options such as the hanger steak. Our tip? Get the beef wellington to share – or do as our youthful waiter once did and eat the entire thing by yourself. Steak’s great, sure, but everything’s better covered with pastry.
This Tuesday menu is more than wall-to-wall meat though. Starters include a smooth press Goosnargh chicken terrine, with leek tarragon emulsion, prune, rosemary and potato croute; Italian soft burrata, with asparagus, rocket, balsamic and Nduja sourdough crumble; or an excellent Lancashire onion soup, which coaxed impressed gasps out of my fellow diners.
A step above the standard hotel restaurant crowd
Even better – and more affordable, without being too teeny – are the nibbles. Fat olives, big lumps of roasted baby chorizo, padron peppers that barely maintain their structure, in a good way, plus, best of all, Mrs Kirkham’s cheese scones – crumbly, buttery, cheesy, all the good things.
Mamucium is new to the city, but it’s already a step above the standard hotel restaurant crowd, largely thanks to the vision and skills of one of the city’s best chefs. Vegans might want to steer clear but you meat-loving brutes will be in heaven.